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Hideout · Wasatch County

Choosing Caps and Chase Covers for Hideout

Hardware on top of a chimney up here has three jobs it does not have in a sheltered valley: staying attached in serious wind, shedding snow rather than holding it, and keeping sparks inside the flue in a dry summer.

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Staying attached

The most common cap failure we are called out to on exposed ground is not corrosion. It is departure. Caps that friction-fit over a flue tile, or that are held on with two short screws into thin metal, come off. On a ridge with little to break the wind, that happens sooner than the installer expected, and until somebody notices, the flue is standing open to the weather. Caps here need to be mechanically fastened, into sound material, with stainless fixings that will not seize or corrode into the fitting they were meant to allow removal from.

Chase covers earn their specification

On a framed chase, the cover is doing the work a masonry crown does and it is made of sheet metal, which means the specification is the whole story. Sloped rather than flat, so meltwater leaves. A cross break down the middle, so a wide pan cannot pond in the center. An overhanging drip edge so water leaves the assembly rather than running back down the siding. A collar around the pipe that is mechanically formed and sealed, not just caulked. Stainless where the exposure is real. A flat galvanized pan rusts through in a few winters and the damage happens inside the chase where nobody sees it.

Spark arrestors and dry ground

Summers here are dry and the vegetation on this kind of open, sagebrush and scrub ground carries fire readily. A spark arrestor is the screen in a chimney cap, and its function is to stop an ember leaving the flue and landing on that. It matters most for wood-burning appliances and for anyone with a fire pit or an outdoor fireplace. The screen has to be the right mesh: too coarse and it stops nothing, too fine and it blinds with soot and chokes the draft.

Snow and the termination

Direct-vent terminations have their own caps, and those need to be the appliance manufacturer's approved component. It is worth choosing the wind-resistant version at the outset on an exposed elevation rather than after the first winter of nuisance pilot outages.

Sealing veneer and exposed masonry

Where a chase is faced in stone, the veneer and its joints will absorb water. A breathable siloxane sealer reduces that. A glossy film-forming product traps moisture behind the face and makes freeze damage worse, so it is worth checking what is being applied before anyone starts spraying.

Questions

Caps & Dampers in Hideout — common questions

Our chimney cap blew off. Can it just be put back?

Only if the reason it left has been fixed. Caps that friction-fit or rely on a couple of small screws will do the same again on this kind of exposure. A replacement should be mechanically fastened with stainless fixings into sound material.

Do we need a spark arrestor in Hideout?

If you burn wood, yes, and it is worth having regardless. The ground around here dries out hard in summer and an ember leaving an open flue is a genuine ignition source. The screen also keeps birds and squirrels out of the flue year round.

What is the difference between a chase cover and a chimney crown?

A crown is the mortar or concrete slab on top of a masonry chimney. A chase cover is the sheet metal lid on top of a framed chase, which is what most homes here have. They do the same job and fail in completely different ways, so it is worth knowing which one you own.

Is stainless worth the extra over galvanized?

On an exposed site, yes, comfortably. Galvanized fails from a combination of snowmelt sitting on it and acidic condensate from the flue, and replacing a cheap cover twice costs more than fitting a stainless one once. It also fails quietly, into the chase.

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